Seasonal Maintenance

How to remove ice dams from your roof — safely, from the ground.

Three methods you can do yourself, three you should never try, and the signal that means it's time to call a steam-removal pro.

$2M LiabilityWSIB CompliantSame-week response

Safe DIY ice dam removal comes down to three approaches: clear roof snow with a long-handled roof rake from the ground, melt drainage channels with calcium chloride in fabric socks, and add heat cables before next winter. What you must NOT do: climb the roof, chip the dam with hammers or axes, salt the shingles directly, or use a pressure washer. If water is already entering your home, skip DIY and call professional steam removal — every minute of water intrusion costs more than the removal will. AUK Roofers does steam ice dam removal across the GTA for $400–$1,200.

Last reviewed: · By AUK Roofers editorial team

Method 1 — Roof rake from the ground (the safest DIY)

A long-handled roof rake (also called a snow rake) lets you pull snow off the lower 3–4 feet of your roof from ground level. Clearing this band prevents new ice dams from forming because there's no snow at the cold eave to melt and refreeze. Best used BEFORE a dam forms — but useful during a thaw to reduce dam growth.

  • Buy a roof rake with 16–20 foot reach (Canadian Tire, Home Hardware, $80–$160)
  • Use after every snowfall of 15+ cm — clear a 3–4 foot band along the lower edge
  • Pull snow DOWN the slope toward the ground — never sideways
  • Stay 4+ feet away from the building — falling snow loads can be heavier than expected
  • Watch for overhead wires — never use a metal rake near power lines
  • If you can't safely reach from ground level, do not use a ladder — call a pro

Method 2 — Calcium chloride socks (channels through existing dams)

If a dam has already formed, you can melt drainage channels through it without damaging shingles by laying fabric socks filled with calcium chloride pellets across the dam perpendicular to the eave. The chloride melts the ice over 6–24 hours; water drains down through the channel; pressure relief stops the back-up under shingles.

  • Use calcium chloride pellets specifically — NOT rock salt or sodium chloride (corrodes flashings, voids most shingle warranties)
  • Buy long fabric pantyhose or specialized 'roof melt socks' — fill 3/4 with calcium chloride
  • Lay each sock perpendicular to the eave, crossing over the dam, with one end hanging into the gutter
  • Place socks every 3–4 feet along the dam length
  • Use a roof rake to hoist them into position from the ground — don't climb
  • Channels open in 6–24 hours; refresh socks every 24–48 hours if dam persists
  • Calcium chloride is corrosive to metal — do not let it sit on flashings or aluminum gutters longer than needed

Method 3 — Plan ahead with heat cables (for next winter)

Heated cables installed along the eave and into the gutter prevent ice dams by keeping a drainage channel open all winter. They're a prevention tool, not a fix for an existing dam. Worth installing in late summer or early fall if your home has had recurring ice dam problems:

  • Self-regulating heat cables: $4–$8 per foot, plus install labour ($400–$1,200 for typical install)
  • Best installed in zig-zag pattern along the eave plus straight runs in gutters and downspouts
  • Requires a dedicated weatherproof outdoor outlet near the install
  • Adds $40–$120 per winter to electricity costs depending on use
  • Not a permanent solution — better long-term fix is attic insulation + ventilation upgrades
  • Skip these if you're planning a roof replacement in the next 1–2 years — they'll be wasted

What NOT to do — and why each is worse than the dam

Every winter we get calls from homeowners who tried these methods and now have a worse problem than the original ice dam. Honest list:

  • Don't climb the roof — wet snow + ice + asphalt shingles is one of the most dangerous DIY surfaces possible. ER visits from this peak every January.
  • Don't chip with a hammer, axe, ice pick, or chisel — every strike breaks the shingle seal strip. You'll have leaks for years.
  • Don't salt the shingles directly with rock salt — corrodes flashings, voids most material warranties, and barely melts anything anyway
  • Don't pressure-wash — drives MORE water under the existing dam and into the attic
  • Don't use a propane torch — extreme fire risk, melts the shingle asphalt, creates fume hazards inside the attic
  • Don't try to use a leaf blower on the snow — it doesn't work and you're still on a ladder in a slip zone
  • Don't ignore it — small dams grow fast in continued cold weather

When DIY is wrong — call steam removal instead

Some ice dam situations have already crossed the threshold where DIY won't help and might make things worse. Skip DIY and call (437) 887-2805 if any of these are true:

  • Water is actively entering your home through ceilings or walls
  • You see brown staining or paint bubbling on interior ceilings or wall tops
  • The dam is more than 15 cm thick or extends across more than one slope
  • You can hear dripping inside the attic
  • Your roof pitch is steeper than 6/12 (most newer GTA homes)
  • You have skylights below the dam line (skylights are common leak entry points during ice dams)
  • You're not physically able to safely use a roof rake from the ground

The real fix — for next winter, not this one

Every method on this page treats a symptom. The actual cause of ice dams is heat escaping from your attic, melting roof snow that then refreezes at the cold eave. The real fix is upstream:

  • Attic insulation upgrade to R-60 (most GTA homes are R-30 or R-40 — well below current best practice)
  • Balanced soffit + ridge ventilation — keeps attic cold, prevents the heat trap that creates dams
  • Air sealing around top-plate, plumbing penetrations, and pot lights — stops warm air loss into the attic
  • Greener Homes Grant covers most of this work — typical eligible spend: $1,800–$5,000
  • Pre-retrofit EnerGuide assessment required before grant eligibility — book in spring/summer
  • Free attic inspection from AUK Roofers across the GTA — we'll tell you honestly if your insulation/ventilation is the cause

Common questions.

Direct answers, no filler.

What's the best roof rake to buy?

Look for 16–20 foot telescoping reach, a lightweight aluminum or fiberglass handle, and a wide plastic or rubber-edged head (metal heads scratch shingles). Brands like Avalanche! and Snow Joe are widely available at Canadian Tire and Home Hardware for $80–$160. Plastic-head models only — avoid steel-bladed roof rakes.

How much calcium chloride do I need for one ice dam?

Roughly one 2-kg bag per 2–3 metre dam length. Use 1.5-litre pantyhose 'socks' filled 3/4 full and spaced 3–4 feet apart. Most home centres sell calcium chloride pellets in 9-kg bags for $25–$40.

Can I just use rock salt instead of calcium chloride?

No. Rock salt (sodium chloride) corrodes aluminum flashings, accelerates shingle granule loss, voids most manufacturer warranties, and barely melts ice at typical GTA winter temperatures. Calcium chloride only.

Will my homeowner's insurance cover ice dam damage if I tried DIY first?

Usually yes if the DIY method was reasonable (roof rake, calcium chloride socks). Coverage gets denied if the homeowner caused additional damage trying to chip the dam, used a pressure washer, or climbed the roof unsafely. Stick to ground-based methods and document what you tried.

How fast does steam removal work compared to DIY methods?

Steam removal cuts a dam off the shingles in 60–120 minutes. Calcium chloride socks open drainage channels in 6–24 hours but don't remove the dam itself. Roof rakes prevent rather than remove. If you need fast — call steam.

Do heat cables actually work in GTA winters?

Yes if installed properly (zig-zag on eaves + straight runs in gutters/downspouts). They prevent dams from forming but consume electricity continuously through winter and don't fix the upstream cause (attic heat loss). Better long-term value: attic insulation + ventilation upgrades. Heat cables are a band-aid.

Can I remove an ice dam by myself if I'm careful on a ladder?

Strongly recommend against. Wet ladders against icy gutters slip easily, ice dams are heavier than they look (a 3-metre dam can weigh 200+ kg), and every chip with a tool damages a shingle. Cost of an injury or roof damage exceeds the cost of professional steam removal in every scenario we've seen.

How much does professional ice dam steam removal cost in the GTA?

Typically $400–$1,200 depending on dam size and access. Tarp-and-secure if water is actively entering: $400–$650 additional. Same-day response across the GTA from AUK Roofers at (437) 887-2805.

Call for emergency steam removal — (437) 887-2805

Across all 14 GTA service areas. $2M insured. WSIB. 25-year workmanship guarantee.

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